Square Maurice Gardette

Back in late September I chanced upon another Square of Paris - Square Maurice Gardette.  It is a large square, by Paris standards (9853 m sq), and what struck me was the beautiful tall trees, the open space around them and the unusual mix of vegetation.  It had a real air of open-ness and I was amazed to find such a large green area in such a heavily populated area.

The Square was created in 1872 on the site of the Ménilmontant abbatoirs, which were destroyed in 1867. It contains trees from all around the world and a bronze sculpture called "Botteleur" by Jacques Perrin (1891).

The bandstand dates from the 19th Century and is currently used for classical, jazz and world music concerts.

There is plenty to occupy children in the Square with a sizeable playground with lots of equipment and a sand pit, although ball games are not allowed.  For the adults there's an area in which to play boules and there's a table tennis table for all ages, plus numerous benches for relaxation.

and trees from all over the world give a unique look to the landscape.  The lawn is accesible from 15 April to 14 October.

Some time ago, it seems that there was a proposition to turn the Square into a parking area and a petition to save the square was mounted.  http://sauvegardesquaremg.wordpress.com/ and a number of short videos of daily life in the square appear on Daily Motion, including a clip of the 'Salsa Square' where many couples enjoy a Salsa in the square and on the bandstand.  Nearest metros are St Ambroise or Voltaire and the Square is in the 11th arr of Paris.

Place Palais Royale, 1st arr

It was a beautiful day yesterday and I enjoyed lunch in the gorgeous square at Palais Royale. 

Enclosed as it is by the Palais Royael,  it is not an obvious garden, not a garden one notices from a distance and it's a surprise when one comes across it on the northern end through the quaint surrounding streets. It is formally laid out with avenues of trees with a central fountain and a quiet refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city streets.


In 1624, Cardinal de Richelieu bought the old Hôtel Rambouillet and surrounding properties. These buildings were removed and the Palais Cardinal was built with a large adjoining garden.   When Cardinal de Richelieu died on December 4, 1642, he bequeathed this property to the crown.

Louis XIV officially gave the deed and ownership to his brother and the family d'Orléans lived here until the Revolution. In 1781, the Duc d'Orléans, later known as Philippe-Egalitié, who also owned the Parc Monceau, commissioned architect Victor Louis to enlarge the palace and shrink the garden, allowing for the construction of houses on three sides of the garden.

While Philippe-Egalitié opened the Jardin du Palais Royal to the public, he prohibited it to the police. It thereby became a place of liberty not found anywhere else in Paris.

From the 1780s to 1837, the palace was the centre of Parisian political and social intrigue and the site of the most popular cafés. The historic restaurant "Le Grand Vefour" is still there. In 1786, a noon cannon was set up by a philosophical amateur, set on the prime meridian of Paris, in which the sun's noon rays, passing through a lens, lit the cannon's fuse. The noon cannon is still fired at the Palais-Royal, though most of the ladies for sale have disappeared, those who inspired the Abbé Delille's lines;
"Dans ce jardin on ne rencontre
Ni champs, ni prés, ni bois, ni fleurs.
Et si l'on y dérègle ses mœurs,
Au moins on y règle sa montre."

("In this garden one encounters neither fields nor meadows nor woods nor flowers. And, if one upsets one's morality, at least one may re-set one's watch.")

The Marquis de Sade referred to the grounds in front of the palace in his Philosophy in the Bedroom (1795) as a place where progressive pamphlets were sold.

The courtyard at the Louvre end of the Place contains a well known artwork by Daneil Buren known as Buren's Columns.  (They were being repaired when I was there).  I shall certainly return her for some respite from the hustle and bustle during the summer.

The leafy avenues gave much needed shade for us lunchtime diners.  The restauraunt terraces looking out onto the Place were full of happy diners, the childrens' sandpit occupied by fellow sandwich eaters and the whole scene was busy yet restful and very beautiful.  An added romantic touch was a couple in cream who seemed to have just been married.  If you look carefully you'll see them in the distance in the second photo strolling lovingly together along along the avenue into the bright sunshine.  So Paris!

Squares of Paris: It's not really a Square!

I tracked down the other green space in 2nd arr, Square Pierre Lazareff, deep in the heart of the garment production/fashion wholesalers area.  The Square is named after a journalist on a French newspaper, France Soir.  And guess what?  It's not really a square! It's an enclosed small planted area with a high wooden structure and alongside is a strip of fenced in plants and trees.  This is not a Square!  I cannot eat my sandwiches in there!

However, there is a little story nevertheless.  The high wooden structure turns out to be a pigeon loft and there's a sign explaining why it's there which explains that this contraceptive 'pigeonnier' was installed by the Town Hall of the 2nd arrondissement of Paris to deal with the pigeon population of the area and improve the conditions of cohabitation between the birds and the residents.

Inside the loft, the pigeons can find water and food and are able to make their nests on small balconies.  Births of baby birds are regulated by the sterilisation of the eggs.

Wounded pigeons are put in the hands of the Ecole Nationale Vétérinaire d'Alfort (near Paris).

The loft is responsible for a significant reduction of pigeon related nuisance in the area.  The pigeons group together in the loft and the cleaning of mess is also easier to handle.

Actually I was pretty speechless at that!  Here's some pics of the non-square, the loft and the Marché de Montorgueil.

So, even in the most meagre green spaces, there's still something interesting to learn.  And the 'square' is right next to the Marché de Montorgueil, a really vibrant street filled with cafés and bakers and some pretty trendy little shops.  So my walk wasn't for nothing......

Didn't find any pics of pigeons, they must all have been inside:-)

Square Louvois

A little known square in the 2nd arron., Square Louvois must have the most impressive fountain of all the little squares in Paris.  It is huge!  The square takes its name from the Marquis of Louvois.  The four female figures on the fountain represent the four major rivers of France - the Seine, the Garonne, the Loire and the Saöne and the signs of the Zodiac are featured on the large marble base.  The fountain was designed by Louis Visconti and was sculpted by Jean Louis Klugman.  The fountain features in a modern day episode of 'Gossip Girl' and one of the characters was pushed into it.(Serena played by Blake Lively).  The square was created in 1830 on the site of the Theatre National de la rue de la Loi.

I really love the soft green fence and its Art Nouveau style, arching outwards.  I'll be watching this ugly looking arch hopefully become covered with plants as the spring and summer approach.

The Square is only one of two green spaces in the 2nd arr, the area of Paris with the fewest green spaces.  It is pretty unexpected and the fountain is impressive and draws an intake of breath when one first falls upon it.

ps behind the square is a fantastic selection of Japanese and Vietnamese restaurants and other versions of Far Eastern cuisine, for all budgets.   Well worth visiting this quarter if you like this type of cuisine and worth shopping around for some very reasonable set menus, especially at lunchtime.